Vernazza: taking it easy on the Italian Riveria

It’s one of those striking places you see on postcards- a tranquil coastal town with charming houses clinging to the side of cliffs overlooking the Adriatic Sea.  This is the picturesque town of Vernazza, tucked away in the Liguria province of north-western Italy. A year ago, it was almost destroyed by a freak rainstorm that hit Cinque Terre, the cluster of five coastal villages that Vernazza is a part of.

Today, traces of the devastating flood are hardly visible. From a distance, it has regained that mystical glow.

Why go?

There’s no shopping at famous Italian brands or jostling with train crowds like big cities such as Rome or Milan. On this side of Italy, it’s all about soaking in the sights and taking time to smell the roses.

A population of only around 1,000, Vernazza is listed as one of the UNESCO World Heritage sites. It ranks among the top most beautiful villages in Italy. Stepping foot in here is like traveling back to medieval time. The once busy harbour town remains a fishing village; its elaborately decorated houses with intricate doorways and elegant style channel more 19^th century than contemporary.

Hike it

There‘s a labyrinth of hidden alleys to explore, revealing interesting architecture amongst charming shops and inviting cafes. But for views that take your breath away, take a hike, or two.  The 90-minute hike from here to Monterosso creates a trail of unforgettable sea and landscapes. The hike’s starting point begins on the northern end of the main street but is not well-marked; you’ll need to ask around for it.

Tip: if you’re not confident of your hiking skills, don’t be daunted by the 3-hour there and back hike to Monterosso. You can always hike there, and return by train.

Another hiking trail to tackle is to Corniglia in the south. This trail offers different views from the northern Moneterosso ones. What spreads out beneath you is the aerial view of the town and its habor, with the Doria castle anchoring the picture-perfect scene.  This also 90-minute hike will take you around Vernazza’s castle and through the meandering Olive groves. Word has it that the town produces the finest olive oil in the country.

Tip: Before you embark on your hike, remember to purchase a hiking pass from your hotel. Only hikers with valid passes are allowed on the trails.

Soaking in the Sights

Among the sights to visit in Vernazza is the Church of Santa Margherita d’Antiochia, a gothic structure at the waterfront that rises to 40 meters tall. The highlight of this 1318 structure is its pointed dome. Then move onto the Doria Castle, which rests on a small cliff.  It acted as a watchtower in its time. From a distance, the castle is seen to be keeping a watchful eye on the village.

Another highlight of Vernazza is its beach, a tiny stretch of sand and glittering waters enveloped by the habor, with imposing cliffs on one side and vast horizon on the other. In summer, people flock here to while their time away. There’re beachside restaurants where you could grab a bite or a drink and relax.

How to Get There

The best way to visit Vernazza is by sea, where you get a glorious view of the town from a distance. A close alternative is by train; this route will take you through the arresting cliffs that lean over the glittering turquoise waters and winding curves of olive trees. The closest airport to Vernazza is the Pisa International Airport, 80km away.

Absent in Vernazza are large full service hotels. But all these add to the enchantment of this beguiling town. There are a collection of guest houses, boutique hotels and vacation rentals to pick from. Staying at any of these smaller establishments is a good way to experience the town. You’ll feel closer to its people as well.

Just prepare to play a bit of charade with the locals if you don’t speak Italian. The townsfolk barely speak any English. It’s a tad inconvenient I’d admit, but doesn’t it mean that this quaint little piece of heaven has yet to be invaded by tourists?